In The Nois Smart-Table you will find the best board games and the best table games in the world!
In just seconds you can turn this table into a backgammon, chess or checkers board and even into an elegant and fancy table for cards and other social games.
All games on the table are not required rotation, which means that each player is always in the same place. This feature makes the table accessible to people with disabilities and older people.
In this page you will find the history and rules of most popular games that you can play on Nois Smart Table.
*Novuss or Snooker Sea or Caroona/Karona. History and Game rules
When we have created a Nois Smart Table, we have been inspired by many games – some of them played in as early as 8th century BC. According to British sources, a popular pub game was created based upon Viking sketches. Norwegians claim that the Viking game was the predecessor of all the billiards games of our time.
Anyway, it is for certain that the game was observed in English pubs during the years 1925-1927. Northern Europe seamen have loved the game and brought it to their countries – Latvia and Estonia. The game became very popular in major cities – Tallin, Ventspils and Liepaja.
Indeed, the fascinating game of Novuss resembles snooker and pool games. It can be found in many places around the world, having different variations and names: sea snooker, Baltic billiards, British pool, pirate pool, “Karuna” and “Novuss”. The two latter terms are used respectively in Estonia and Latvia. The game is very popular in the Baltic countries and has been recognized as an official sport in the Soviet times.
Did we succeed? Try the game and decide for yourself!
RULES OF NOVUSS
The table is divided with lines drawn on the surface from edge to edge into 4 play zones (maximum of 4 players), known as edge zones. Each edge zone has a middle (center) line. The circle (center mark) in the center of the table is divided by two crossed lines. Together, the areas formed by these lines, are called the “blind” zones. The projectiles are wooden discs (aka: rings / pucks) – usually red & black, the striker (aka: shooting ring) and cue stick.
Purpose of the game – To put all your disks into the pockets (any one from four pockets).
Before beginning play, the participants should check the surface of the table and clean or polish it as necessary.
Starting a game
In elimination competition, the right of start can be determined by a coin-toss. Another method is playing the Striker to rebound the shortest distance from the opposite edge.
Having determined the starting order, players are situated opposite each other and place eight
(8) discs on the table in an uninterrupted row, touching adjacent discs and the edge board. There should be four (4) discs on either side of the middle line (On The Picture Number 4.1). The player who lost the right to start has choice of side.
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Description of the Novuss (On The Picture)
1. The Game begins – The Ordering of “Red” player discs
2. The Game begins – The Ordering of “Black” player discs
3. The Center of the Game Board
3.1 The disc is considered outside a “blind” zone (or Center of The Game board )as long as the line bordering such an area can be seen through the center hole.If you can see the center line then the disc is not in the Center of the board (or “bling zone”) (outside of the Center / “bling” zone)
3.2 A disc is in the Center of the board game. “In the Center”
4. “Blind / Hit” zone. To make a stroke, the Striker is placed on the table so that its hole lies entirely within the “blind” zone at the nearest edge between the lines of the adjacent edge zones
4.1 Discs on either side of the middle line
5. The player’s edge zone (“Tooth zone”). When the player’s disc in his/her “Tooth zone” or in the Game board Center then the player can’t use a direct stroke, but by other him disc or through the opposite edge board only.
6. The pocket.
7. The edge board. The player’s fingers should never touch the playing surface, only the edge board.
The Game set include:
a)Board / Game Table (100cm.X100cm., made of wood)
c)Discs / Pucks in 2 colors (black & red, 16 of each)
e)2 Cue sticks (any length, width and weight)
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3. Game rules
3.1 A game consists of several sets (usually 6-7), the number of which is agreed upon before beginning play.
3.2 A set begins when the players have taken places at the opposite sides of the table and one of the players has made the first stroke. (See the Picture)
3.3 To make a stroke, the Striker is placed on the table so that its hole lies entirely within the
“blind” zone at the nearest edge between the lines of the adjacent edge zones (On The Picture Number 4).
3.4 The Striker is placed without making contact with any playing discs. The Striker may not hit directly any discs in player’s own edge zone.
3.5 The player’s fingers should never touch the playing surface, only the edge board.
3.6 After the Striker is put on the table, the player is allowed to move it by hand to a different position.
3.7 When executing a stroke the cue is allowed to rest only between corners of the edge nearest the player. When aiming or striking, the player’s hand may rest on the edge board, but must not touch the surface of the table.
3.8 The stroke should be made with the tip of the cue. A stroke is considered as having been completed if the tip of the cue has moved the Striker. Only one (1) touch of the Striker is permitted. If a stroke is taken with two strikes in rapid succession, the player loses their turn.
3.9 After a successful stroke—i.e., if one or more discs are pocketed and no breach of rules has occurred—the player recovers the Striker and places it at will before to take the next stroke.
3.10 Player finishes a turn if:
a) No discs have been pocketed.
b) The opponent’s disc is pocketed.
c) The disc is forced off the table.
d) The player commits any breach of the rules resulting in a penalty. (SEE CHAPTER 5)
3.11 If as a result of a stroke one disc lands on top of another, put them side by side without touching other discs. If a disc lands on top of a Striker, the latter is removed and disc is put in its place. Play continues.
3.12 A disc is considered “out” if it:
a) Is hit off the table.
b) Is hit off the table and falls back on but has made contact with an object outside.
c) Lands on top of the edge board.
d) Such a disc is put in the center of the circle.(On The Picture Number 3.2) If the center is already occupied, it is placed inside the circle on the center line of the side that it jumped over. If that point is also occupied, it is put on the next available point in clockwise direction.
3.13 When a player pockets the last disc, but in doing so incurs a penalty (e.g., pockets the Striker), the set is lost.
3.14 If a player, with a correctly executed stroke, pockets his/her own last disc and also the last disc of the opponent, the set is declared a draw.
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4. Direct & Rebound Strokes (Forward & Back Shots)
4.1 A player is allowed to pocket their his/her own discs with direct strokes except those within “blind” zones – the center circle and the player’s own edge zone.
4.2 A direct stroke means that the Striker must first touch the player’s own disc outside the
“blind” zones after which it may hit any other discs.
4.3 A disc is considered outside a “blind” zone as long as the line bordering such an area can be seen through the center hole.
4.4 When a player’s own discs are all in “blind” zones, it is permissible to use a rebound stroke to attack any discs anywhere on the table.
4.5“Blind” discs can be played:
a) With a rebound stroke – the Striker touches at least one edge board before hitting the disc.
b) With the Striker after it touches a player’s own disc outside “blind” zone.
c) Using any discs as long as the Striker first touches the player’s own disc outside
4.6 A tacking and driving the opponent’s discs is permitted:
a) With a rebound stroke when the player has only “blind discs” left.
b) With the Striker after it touches the player’s own disc.
c) Using any discs, providing the stroke was correctly executed.
Note: If as a result of any of the moves under rule 4.4, an opponent disc(s) is driven off the table, it will be placed in the center circle and the turn is lost.
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5.1 Penalties are imposed for rule infringements by loss of turn and returning to play one previously pocketed disc. The “penalty disc” is put on the center line touching the edge board. If more than one disc is to be placed, they are placed symmetrically on either side of the center line or as close as possible to the center line without moving any discs. If vacant positions are equidistant from the center, the penalty disc is placed on the side with least number of discs.
5.2 If the penalized player has all eight discs on the table, a penalty “debt” stands until discs are available. The penalty disc is put out only after the player or opponent has finished their turn.
5.3 It is the opponent’s responsibility to make sure penalty discs are placed as soon as they become available.
5.4 If during the game the debt is forgotten, the game goes on and the debt is annulled.
5.5 For several rule infringements resulting from one stroke (e.g.: Striker is pocketed without touching any discs), only a one disc penalty is imposed.
5.6 A player loses strike rights and acquires a penalty disc if:
a) With a direct stroke, the Striker fails to touch any disc.
b) With a direct stroke, the Striker touches its own and the opponent’s disc simultaneously.
c) With a direct stroke, a player hits his/her own disc in a “blind” zone. It is returned to its original position.
d) With a direct stroke, the opponent’s disc is driven into a “blind” zone. It is returned to its original position.
e) With a direct stroke, Striker first touches opponent’s disc. It remains in the new position unless driven into a “blind” zone.
f) With a direct stroke, the opponent’s disc is driven out of a “blind” zone. It remains in the new position.
g) With a direct stroke, the opponent’s disc is driven off the table. It is returned to its original position.
h) With a rebound stroke, the Striker first touches opponent’s disc while there are discs available for a direct shot. It remains in the new position unless driven into a “blind” zone.
i) With a rebound stroke, the opponent’s disc is driven off the table. The disc is placed in the center circle.
j) With a rebound stroke, while there are discs available for a direct shot, the opponent’s disc is forced into “blind” zone. It is returned to its original position.
k) With a rebound stroke, Striker fails to touch the opponent’s edge unless it touches a disc in the circle.
l) A player touches the Striker while discs are still in motion.
m) A player refuses to make a stroke.
n) A player makes a double stroke (e.g., the cue hits the striker twice). If as a result of the double stroke a disc is dislodged, it is returned to its original position.
o) The Striker drops into a pocket or is driven off the table.
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6. Loss of Set
A set is forfeited if the player commits one of the following offences:
6.1 With a direct stroke, hits several of his/her own discs in the “blind” zones.
6.2 Displaces several discs with fingers, striker or cue.
6.3 Pushes the table, thereby displacing several discs.
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7. Singles Games
7.1 In singles game, two players take position on opposite sides of the table.
7.2 A set is won by the player who first pockets all eight discs.
7.3 After each set, the players exchange places but the right to start the set remains on the same side.
7.4 If both players have discs left only in the “blind” zones and both miss them three times, the game is stopped and the set is replayed.
7.5 If a player pockets his/her own as well as opponent’s last discs, the set is declared a draw.
If a penalty is incurred while pocketing the last disc or the Striker has crossed its own edge zone line, set is lost.
7.6 If the first player pockets all eight discs in the first turn, the opponent is also given the
right to play. Should the opponent also succeed in pocketing all discs in the one turn, the set is replayed without changing sides and the same first strike rights unless it happens in the deciding set of a game.
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8. Doubles Game
8.1 In doubles game , a team of two partners play opposite each other. The partners stand opposite each other. First strike rights always remain at one side of table.
8.2 At the completion of a set, the starting position remains on the same side while players change places in a clockwise direction. Discs are set up by partners after they have changed places.
8.3 The player’s objective is to pocket not only their own but the partner’s discs as well. The winning team is the one to achieve this first.
8.4 Should the opening player pocket all 16 discs on the first turn, the next opponent has the right to attempt to do the same.
8.5 Penalty discs are put on the side opposite the offending player, however not before the
starting lineup have been disturbed.
8.6 Before the Striker is placed on the table, the partners may discuss the situation and plan a strategy (e.g., which disc should be attacked). After the Striker has been placed on the surface, no advice may be offered orally or by means of gestures or signs.
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9. Game Result
When one of the players / teams has won more than half of the sets of an odd-set numbered game, they are declared the winner and the game is discontinued.
In an even-set number game, a draw is possible.
* Carrom or Karrom or Indian Billiard. History and Game Rules
Carrom (also known as Karrom) is a “strike and pocket” table game of Eastern origin similar to billiards and table shuffleboard. It is found throughout the East under different names though most non-eastern people know it by the East Asian name of Carroms (or Karrom). It is very popular in Nepal, India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and surrounding areas and in the Middle East as well. In South Asia, many clubs and cafés hold regular tournaments. Carrom is very commonly played by families, including the children, and at social functions. Different standards and rules exist in different area.” (From Wikipedia)
The origins of Carrom are obscure at best.
Some say it was the invention of the Maharajahs of India, while many in India believe it may have been introduced by the British. Some books on international games include Burma, Egypt and Ethiopia as possible sources, all of which leads us to conclude that, at this time, no-one knows where Carrom originated.
What we do know is that over the past century or so, carrom has become the regional pastime of the Indian subcontinent as well as all other countries where South Asians have migrated. Players often begin at home with family but carry it into their adult lives as a social activity or even to work as a break from the office routine.
Serious carrom tournaments may have begun in Sri Lanka in 1935 but by 1958, both India and Sri Lanka had formed official federations of carrom clubs, sponsoring tournaments and awarding prizes.
The movement to form the International Carrom Federation gained momentum in the 1980s due to energetic promotion by Europeans and Asians alike. The first Carrom Congress was held in 1988 and their first tournament in 1989 with India, Sri Lanka, the Maldives, Germany, Switzerland & Holland competing for a silver cup. Probably the most important event in unifying Carrom players around the world has been the codification of rules for tournament play by the ICF. Previously players from various countries played by different rules, making international competition impossible. With the creation of the Laws of Carrom teams from all the carrom-playing countries are now able to agree on rules and ‘International Standard’ Carrom has been born. Regulations cover the dimensions of the board and playing pieces as well as every conceivable procedural question.
Author: Billy Stevens
Carron Rules and Laws
You are most welcome to review the professional Laws of Carrom adopted by the International Carrom Federation, though I personally would not recommend that for beginners or casual players.
Most visitors would find the following simplified carrom rules quite useful to get started with the game.
Generally speaking, two or four people can play carrom. If two, the players sit opposite each other, while with four, the opposite two are partners. As an exception, though, you can play with three players against each other for points.
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Arrange the carrom men on the centre circle of the carrom board as shown in the following illustration, with the red ‘queen’ at the centre. The whites should be lined up to form a “Y” shape, with two sides aiming directly towards the corner pockets.
1.a) Towards left corner pocket.
1.b) Towards right corner pocket.
2) Correct Striker Placement
3) Incorrect Striker Placement
4) Shots option – Index Finger
6) Shots option – ‘Scissors’ Shot
7) Shots option – For ‘back-shots’ you may only use your thumb or the scissors technique.
8) Incorrect Arm Position
Each player sits on his side of the board and can only strike from that side. The contestant playing white ‘breaks’ or plays first, which can be decided by the toss of a coin. The object of the game of carrom is to sink all of your carrommen, using the heavier ‘striker’, in any of the pockets before your opponent. Your turn continues as long as you keep sinking your carrommen – luck shots count and all combinations are permitted.
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When placing the striker on the board to shoot, it must touch both ‘base lines’, either covering the end circle completely, or not touching it at all. The striker may not touch the diagonal arrow line. (on the Picture Number 2 and 3).
Shooting styles are very personal – whichever ‘grip’ works for you is fine as long as you ‘flick’ the striker and don’t push it. Generally, it’s best to orient your body in order to see the line of your aim while shooting comfortably; you may not move or leave your chair. (on the Picture Number 4-6).
For forward shots, you can use your index finger, middle finger, or even the ‘scissors’ shot. Before shooting, try touching the striker with your fingernail, to be sure that its really on line. This will improve your accuracy and prevent you from hurting your finger. (on the Picture Number 4-6)
For ‘back-shots’ you may only use your thumb or the scissors technique. (on the Picture Number 7)
No part of your body, except your hand, may cross the imaginary diagonal line nor may your elbow protrude over the frame in front of you. Even your feet or knees my not leave your quadrant. (on the Picture Number 8)
The red ‘queen,’ can be pocketed at any time after sinking your first piece but must be sunk before your last one. After pocketing the queen, you must sink one of your carrommen, thereby ‘covering’ it, into any pocket in the next shot, or she is returned to the center spot.
Once the queen is covered, whoever clears all their carrom men first wins the ‘board’.
The winner of a board collects one point for each of the opponent’s carrom men left at the finish and three points for the queen if covered by the winner (if covered by the loser, no-one gets those points). No more points are collected for the queen after your score reaches 22.
A game consists of 25 points or eight boards, whichever comes first.
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• Sinking the striker costs you one piece and your turn. But, if you sink a piece in the same shot, then two come up and you shoot again.
• After sinking the striker, your opponent places the due piece(s) within the center circle. If you haven’t sunk one yet, you owe one.
• If while shooting for the quee,n you also sink one of your carrom men in the same shot, the queen is automatically covered, no matter which went first.
• If a piece jumps off the board, it is placed on the center spot. If pieces land on end or are overlapping, they are left that way.
• If the center spot is partially covered when replacing the queen or a jumped piece, the piece should cover as much red as possible. If totally covered, the piece is placed opposite the next player behind the red spot.
• If you sink your opponent’s piece, you lose your turn. If you sink their last piece, you lose the board and three points.
• If you sink your last piece before the queen, you lose the board, three points and one point for each of your opponent’s pieces left.
• If the striker does not leave both lines, go again. You get three tries to break before losing your turn.
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